Handkerchiefs

One of our projects for the Harvest Fair is  broderie perse handkerchiefs, with nice antique hemstitched edges and Venetian crochet lace.

Hemstitching in this manner is an old technique, using either pulled work or drawn thread work. It can be plain or fancy.

Broderie perse as a decorative technique arose with the importation in the 17th Cenutry of expensive India cottons to Europe and the American Colonies. It  is a style of appliqué embroidery which uses printed elements to create a scene on the background fabric. Originally, it was worked with Chintz which has clearly defined, separated motifs, and was cut out and invisibly applied onto the ground fabric. The typical intention was to create a scene from the motifs, but the decoration could also be random. The resulting fabric was often made into bedspreads, either unlined for summer or quilted for winter. They were often used for special occasions, such as guest beds.

Handkerchiefs as tokens of affection and regard became very popular in the 16th Century, both on the Continent and in England. Italy was the center from which the highest quality embroideries and laces were sought, it also became the center from which the best handkerchiefs were sought. In the sixteenth century Venice needle lace became one of the most popular and sought-after trims, from across the Continent. Our handkerchiefs have crocheted Venetian lace trim.

A custom began in England where girls gave small handkerchiefs with tassels as a token of their love. These handkerchiefs were often only three or four inches in diameter, and decorated with tassels at the corners, in the French fashion. They cost anywhere from six to sixteen pence, and the girls who bought them would often embroider them with love knots and name; men who were given these tokens would wear them on their person, often tucked into their hatband.

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Harvest Fairs

 

We at Brother Rabbit are going the the San Mateo Harvest Arts & Crafts Fair  in November, selling such small items as pincushions and handkerchieves, watch fobs, ribbon garters and hair jewellery, such as would have been purveyed at a traditional Hiring Fair in old days, when it was expected that one would bring a small oddment home for the children or one's sweetheart.

Hiring fairs were held twice a year,  as the term of contracts ran six months; in the spring and in the autumn. Any sort of labour could be hired for: house servants, farm labourers, ostlers, drivers, even ladies' maids, if one was in need of such.

As today with Harvest festivals - in lieu of Samhain (Hallowe'en) - in addition to games and sweeties for the children, there was often a raucous party atmosphere at these gatherings, with free flowing drink, flirting and dancing, wrestling and contests of strength. Sometimes the outcomes were happy and sometimes a mixed blessing, as  in the songs below:

I went down to the hiring fair for to sell my labour,

And I noticed a maid in the very next row and I hoped

She'd be my neighbour.

Imagine then my delight when the farmer picked us both.

I spoke not a word in the cart to the farm, but my

Heart beat in my throat.

- The Hiring Fair, Trad.

As I went out by Huntley town one evening for to fee
With Bogie O' Cairnie and with him I did agree
To mind his two best horses or cart or harrow or plow
Or anything about farmwork that I very well should know

Old Bogie had a daughter, her name was Isabelle
She's the lily of the valley and the primrose of the dell
And when she went out walking she took me for her guide
Down by the burn of Cairnie for to watch the small fish glide

- Bogie's Bonny Belle, Trad.

We shall merely be  sitting a pretty booth with our gentle wares, and not engaging in any wresting or caber-tossing; 'twould spoil my frock....

Compendium and classes!

For those of you who make your own items, you will be delighted as I was to find The Sharpe Compendium Shops - which lists shops that cater to the re-enactor, LARP, or cosplay communties. There are some familiar names among them, Wm. Booth, Draper, Nehelenia Patterns,  Smoke and Fire Company, Alter Years, Jas. Townsend and Son, Inc., The Staymaker ... It's a feast for the bluestocking in one!

For those of you who do not yet make your own items, but would wish to do so, we are offering courses in Historical Fine Hand-Sewing and Embroidery. The Handsewing Course is $150; the Embroidery Course is $300.

The Handsewing Course consists of Three PDF Lesson packages with materials (muslin, needles, thread) and instructions. The First Lesson consists of basic stitches (running, backstitch, whip, pin stitch) and seams (plain, felled, and whipped) and seam finishes, as well as historical commentary on the use of such methods

The Second Lesson involves the construction of pleats, ruffles, gauging and cartridge pleating, and tucks, as well as working with and finishing curved seams, French seams, and plain hemming. It concludes with historical commentary on the use of such methods, and study resources.

The Third Lesson progresses to fancy hems, faggoted seams, buttonholes of various sorts and the making of buttons. Period techniques such as simple needlelace, Dorset buttons, covered buttons and round buttons are included. Methods of attaching linings, piping and cording are an optional bonus.
Historical commentary on the use of such methods, and study resources accompany this final section.

Self tests are enclosed with the packets, and I am available to answer questions via email or the Workshops Page here.
At the end of the course, you can expect to have an artisan-level skill that, with practise, you can use for pleasure and profit.

By comparison, to get such a course from the Embroiderers' Guild, one would have to
      * Be a Member - $60
      * Pay for each Lesson - $150
      * Purchase the materials  - $20

The Embroidery Course consists of five PDF Lessons with materials (linen, hoop, needles, embroidery cotton, wool, beads and spangles) and instructions. The First Lesson consists of basic stitches (cross stitches, double running, algerian eye, Queen stitch, Irish stitch) as well as historical commentary on the use of such methods. It results in a working band sampler of the 17th Century mode for your future reference.

The Second Lesson progresses to surface stitches for both silk (or cotton) and wool (crewel). It includes advice on choosing colourways and methods of shading. It concludes with historical commentary on the use of such methods, and study resources. It results in a working spot sampler of the 17th Century mode for your future reference.

The Third Lesson encompasses whitework, including cutwork (reticella, broderie anglaise), drawn work, pulled work, Ayshire sprigging, casalguidi, and needlelace. It concludes with historical commentary on the use of such methods, and study resources. It results in working spot samplers of the 17th Century mode for your future reference.

The Fourth Lesson consists of quilting methods; flat quilting, patchwork, cording, trapunto, whole cloth and subdued crazy patch.  Included is historical commentary on the use of such methods, and study resources. It results in quilt samples of the 18th and 19th Century modes for your future reference.

The Fifth Lesson has two options:
1) padded work ('stumpwork') and the use of gold, beads, and spangles. This was the piece de resistance of a young lady's 17th Century needlework education. Stitches used are surface embroidery, trapunto, needlelace, cutwork and pulled work. Historical commentary on the use of such methods and study resources are included. It results in a decorative piece which may be used in the traditional manner to cover a box lid, or framed.

2) painted surface embroidery picture. This was the pride of an early 19th Century young lady's needlework education. It consists of a memorial or sentimental scene, drawn with painted elements - such as the sky, with the details of the picture needle-painted with finely detailed and shaded surface stitching. Historical commentary on the use of such methods and study resources are included. It results in a decorative piece which may be framed and given as a gift, in the traditional manner.

Self tests are enclosed with the packets, and I am available to answer questions via email or the Workshops Page here.
At the end of the course, you can expect to have an artisan-level skill that, with practise, you can use for pleasure and profit.

By comparison, to get such a course from the Embroiderers' Guild, one would have to
      * Be a Member - $60
      * Pay for each Lesson - $250
      * Purchase the materials  - $100