Showing posts with label Art Nouveau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Art Nouveau. Show all posts

07 July 2019

Brother Rabbit Lifestyle, Part 3: Design Principles




 
When we hear the term “Arts & Crafts” in terms of architecture, furniture, or decorative arts, we often think of Craftsman bungalows and square, rough-hewn chairs, and rooms adorned with pottery in subdued hues. In fact, there was never merely one style of Arts & Crafts design. Beginning, as we have noted previously, in the Gothic Revival in Britain, and under the strong influence of the Mediaevalism of Ruskin and Pugin, the drive for incorporation of historical and vernacular styles (local to the area in which the items were made) was an early tenet of the look. Morris certainly did this with his inclusion of such items as Sussex chairs and refectory (or trestle) tables; the Sussex chair became widely known as the Morris chair and was copied worldwide.

Morris famously advised clients to 'have nothing in your homes which you do not know to be beautiful and believe to be useful.' However, fed a constant stream of gimcrack manufactured items, how was the average person – whom Morris wished to reach in his reforms – to know what was beautiful, or indeed discern what was truly useful from the plethora of so-called labour saving devices come upon the market (such as carpet sweepers and any manner of kitchen gadgetry)? One answer was to look to the Art & Crafts designers for advice as arbiters of the beautiful, rather than manufacturers of mainstream Victorian furniture and decorative arts items. Another, equally valid, method was to look to nature, both wild and domestic, and impart these designs by simple means into or onto the furniture one's local ancestors had always made, or the items made by the household for their use. The advantage to the latter is that we may incorporate symbols which are important to ourselves, our family, or our local or ethnic history into the ornamentation of our homes and their decoration, thus truly making a statement about who we are and what matters to us, which has always been a purpose of design, but which was especially important to the Arts & Crafts, and even moreso to us today.

Following on this edict was the principle of simplicity of design; that is, no 'excess' ornamentation (for its own sake), as may be seen in the Victorians' use of multiple layers of drapery and curtains, table coverings, or combining of several period styles of carving in one piece of furniture. The Renaissance revival style is a good example of this 'excess ornamentation', being a mishmash of a wide range of classical Italian and French modes, without much regard to the rules of the classical orders. Real Renaissance era buildings and furnishings adhere to the rules of proportion, and thus appear balanced and pleasing, while much of their Victorian counterparts are a jumble and disturbing to the senses.

In the melding of the Arts & Crafts with Art Nouveau, Jugenstyl, and other national or local styles, such as Viking revival or Tiffany glasswork, some may argue that this principle of simplicity was lost; while others – the work of Macintosh and the Glasgow School, Archibald Knox, Stickley, Greene & Greene, the Roycroft Co-operative, and Frank Lloyd Wright retain the simplicity of design of the pure Arts & Crafts ethos. Personally, I have a great fancy for both Knox's pared down Celtic designs – which were sold through Liberty and Company's department store – and work of G.F and Mary Watts, notable the Watts Chapel. Somewhere in the middle of this design spectrum is the embroidery work of Jessie Newbery and the MacDonald sisters, Frances and Margaret. I will confess to being awed and overwhelmed by the beauty of Tiffany glass, seen up close in an exhibition many years ago, but after a while, it became disturbingly too much for the senses, whereas the softer colours of the designs inside the Watts Chapel were much more restful to the eye; thus I learned an important lesson about what was meant by 'simplicity' in this matter. It is one thing to have bright scarlet walls with industrial furniture as a design statement, but quite another to live a comfortable, relaxed life with it.



For the everyday person especially, working in shops, offices, or factories, coming home to a restful, beautiful environment impacted the quality of life as much as having beautiful interiors did to the upper classes, and this is why Morris strove to make beautiful, well-crafted items available to the masses, even if production costs made individually crafted items prohibitively expensive to the masses. The philosophy of the effect of beauty and harmonious surroundings upon the spirit of man is a very important one in Arts & Crafts design, following on Ruskin's idea that in the Middle Ages when the common folk worked outdoors for the most part and were surrounded by nature, then went home to simple, handmade furnishings and hand worked neccessaries, they were happier than the contemporary man, working in a dirty, grey gritty factory full of noise, coming home through dirty, crowded noisy streets to squalid cheaply furnished accommodations often shared with too many others, punctuated by ugly tin souvenirs from hard-won seaside holidays. I am exaggerating but a little the everyday life of ordinary people in the period. This concern for the mental as well as physical well-being of the working man was an enormous preoccupation for many social reformers at the time, of whom our Arts & Crafts designers were numbered. The drive for Beauty wasn't just an ivory tower ideal promulgated by backward-looking academics, but a real, nuts and bolts, crying from the streetcorners reform movement that took many forms. We may ask ourselves in the 21st century, with lives full of endless technology and media bombardment, whether we may not learn something of how to make our lives better from these efforts of our radical Victorian friends.

Specifically, what distinguishes items as Arts & Crafts, whether made in the accepted period of 1860-1900 or today, is that they are made from start to finish by the designer (not designed by one person and parts made individually by others then assembled at some future point); using natural local woods with exposed joints (or locally available metals); made from or incorporating vernacular, traditional designs, used in the local area for generations; with stylised designs (often of a folk nature) taken from the local outdoors. What I mean by stylised designs is the flat, Pre-Raphaelite etching style seen in Mediaeval woodcuts. Morris said of textile designs that they weren't supposed to look like an actual field of flowers (referencing the mania for extreme shading then popular; today we would call it needlepainting.) There is some shading, to distinguish one part of the design from another, but it is very minimal, and indeed to our eyes as well as the Victorians', the design will look flat, not three dimensional.

We can see why, then, that there was no specific 'Arts & Crafts' style, being adapted to suit local materials and conditions. An Arts & Crafts style can be Japanese, German, Czech, or Nigerian, as long as it follows on the design principles. One is not better than another, or 'more' Arts & Crafts. We will have our personal preferences, of course, and that is perfectly acceptable.

Finally, an important aspect to designing one's own interiors and exteriors – the front terrace garden and walk being as much a part of the design of one's environs as the curtains or crockery indoors – is cohesion. Pick a local style of Arts & Crafts design and by and large stick to it. This limits the options, of course, but also chaos which may ensue from competing styles and a disconcerting jumble to the eye. If you must, mix two or three which are analogous (for instance, Viking, Jacobean, and Celtic) for some variety. As an example, I love Japonisme, East Indian and Tibetan folk art, but as I have European, mostly Jacobean style furniture and lots of plaid, being Scottish, the exotic East really wouldn't go, so I limit my forays to a few clothing items. Otherwise, my digs would look like a rather neglected anthropology museum instead of a Scottish country manor in miniature, which is my object. Also, contrary to the 'country' decorating style, try not to have vast collections of things you don't actually use cluttering up the walls and shelves, whether it be baskets, quilts, depression glass, or real ancient Greco-Roman urns (which, unless you inherited them from your uncle who excavated Troy you shouldn't have anyway.) If you have real, beautiful things, use them. If you need a dinnerware set for 100 people because you host State dinners, then by all means, have it. But a collection of 2000 antique china thimbles can probably go to your local museum, where you can visit them if necessary.

12 May 2015

The Romantic Wedding

Wedding season being upon us shortly, our thoughts naturally turn to silk tulle and orange blossom. But wait, need the bride be attired in white if it suits her not? Why not a garland of myrtle or rosemary, or bay, as the Romans and Elizabethans did? Certainly a Romantic bride is not limited to the choice of Queen Victoria in the colour of her gown, nor to roses or garden flowers in her bouquet or corsage. Herbs may be added to a standard flower bouquet or garland or subsume it entirely, using the Language of Flowers to carry a special message on the day:

Burnet: a merry heart
Calendula: health, joy
Carnation: admiration, pure love
Dill: good spirits
Heartsease (Johnny-jump-up): happy thoughts
Ivy: fidelity, wedded love
Lamb’s-ears: support
Lavender: devotion, undying love, luck
Lemon Verbena: unity
Marjoram: blushes, joy
Mint: warmth of feeling
Myrtle: fidelity, everlasting love, married bliss
Oregano: joy, happiness
Parsley: festivity
Queen-Anne’s-lace: protection
Rose (pink): beauty, grace
Rose (red): passion, love, luck
Rose (white): unity, love, respect, innocence
Rose geranium: preference
Rosemary: remembrance, fidelity, luck
Sage: domestic virtue, long life
Silver-king artemisia: sentimental recollections
Thyme: courage, strength
Verbena: faithfulness, marriage
Wormwood: affection
Yarrow: everlasting love

Queen Victoria aside, wedding dresses were not often white until quite recently, as the dress would be slightly remade to be the best evening or dinner dress. Of colours, any suitable to her complexion may be used, and although black is considered of ill-luck and becoming to few, some Winters may carry it off, in whole or in part of the costume, with aplomb.

In the 1840s, whites extended to ivory, beige,  blonde, eggshell, oyster, and ecru, with satin being the most popular fabric choice. These would be suitable to Springs, Summers, and Autumns.

In the 1850s, figured silks were popular in pale colours of blue, yellow, peach and pink, suitable to Springs and Summers.

 In the 1860s, textures silks and satins were often seen, with colours ranging from  ecru to dusty blue (blue being a very popular choice in all ranges). The item below would be very good for Summers.

The 1870s saw a great deal of colour in wedding dresses, ranging from tan, to sage green to rust. Silk was still favoured as the material of choice. These colours would suit Autumns.


The 1880s saw the re-emergence of brocade and other rich fabrics. Whites tended to be in the range of ivory to beige, and pinks and blues were used as accents. Darker colours were also fashionable, as the deep plum below, suitable for Winters.



The 1890s saw a great deal of detailed trim on non-shiny silk. Beading, embroidery, tulle ruching, often in colours, relieved the white or ivory choice. Mid tones of grey, lilac, and periwinkle blue were  seen. These would suit all seasons.


The turn of the century, the 1900s, saw the dainty use of fine lace and tulle for gowns, with ivory being the most popular white, and heavier laces such as Irish crochet for a richer look. These were often lined in pale colours of pink, yellow, blue and green, suitable to Springs, Summers, and Autumns.

The 1910s continued the trend of layered net and lace, with coloured silks underlays, beading and embroidery, in pastel to medium colours. Blue, lilac, and all shades of pink were popular, suitable to all seasons.
For those interested in our wedding dress range, please visit our virtual catalogue on Pinterest at Brother Rabbit Weddings.

05 April 2015

Spring and Tokens of Affection

Since our move, we have all had the 'flu here at Brother Rabbit, so we apologise for the long delay in posting. But the apple and pear trees are now in bloom, and the lilacs have budded and are dotting the Hill with Easter colour.

Presently, we are working to have our Accessory items in museum shops across the United States, including Mount Vernon, Colonial Williamsburg, Monticello, as well as the Smithsonian and living history sites from Plimouth Plantation to the Dunsmuir Helman House.

We have a wide array of museum quality Gentlemen's, Ladies' and Children's items suitable for gifts, souveniers, and tokens of affection.
 




















08 March 2015

Our New Location!

As of March 13, 2015, our new location will be in the San Jacinto mountains, in the beautiful little village of Idyllwild, wither we have sojourned since childhood.

Set among tall pines, sweet smelling cedars and legendary rocks, the town has kept its "small town" atmosphere. Locally owned shops and restaurants are all you will find here. Come and experience the peace and quiet of Idyllwild.
If you are ready to get away from the traffic jams, or the noisy city life, this is the town for you. 

Here we will teach our classes, to both children and adults, distribute our wares via our Etsy shop and website, and participate in the local living history. Come visit if you are in the area!

18 October 2014

Readying for Winter

At this time of year in the Northern Hemisphere, the weather can be changeable, with 'Indian Summer' - warm days and cold nights, hot one day and cold the next, snow, rain, or humidity all in one week in some areas. However, this is a perfect time to get one's house and wardrobe - and that of the family - ready for winter.


Mrs. Beeton, in her Book of Household Management says, 'In September and October it will be necessary to prepare for the cold weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away, the fire-places, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the house put in a thorough state of repair.'

For our purposes, this is the time to rotate the linens, from summer cottons and coverlets to winter flannels and quilts. The former will want a wash, and the latter an airing, before being laid away in herbs to protect the beautiful starching from vermin, or to be laid upon the beds. Carefully examine the household linen, with a view to its being repaired, if necessary, before cleaning or airing.

Woolens likewise can be freshened, being well shaken and brushed, after being taken out of their pinning upon paper or linen, and camphor (to keep them from moths.) This is true for knitwear as well as cloth.

If your find that you are in need of knitwear or fashionable winter Artistic dress  now is the time to make them, or seeing to having items made, so to be ready for the first really cold days.

Sprucing up a pair of boots:
A lovely quilted winter bonnet:


Stylish Knitwear:



07 September 2014

Patterns and Pattern-Making


We have spent the day here at the exciting task of downloading a design programme, which allows us to share our new designs with you, showing various fabrics available, as well as making patterns for various sizes, cutting down on pattern drafting.

This is a very new thing for us, being used to the old method of sizing up patterns by the pivot and slide method, which is used in the pattern industry, and in which we were trained.

It may seem odd to be embracing new technology for such work, but even our dear Topsy had a jaquard loom for his designs, which enabled one man to do work which would have taken weeks in days; the loom was manually operated, thus did not violate the ethic of individual work.

Aside from enabling us to get to the fun work of making garments sooner, it also means that we can offer our lovely items as a line of sewing patterns for those interested in creating their own versions, with their own handmade embellishments.

Look in future for our patterns here and on Etsy!

11 July 2014

Lace

Making lace lengths today for dress trimmings, neckline and sleeves. Matching sets in ecru and tan.
Like these